The following supply list and step by step guide will vary based on individual BIO specs and serves only as a general guideline.

General Supply List

• Drilling tools
• Anchors
• Anchor expoxy (check BIO but standard is hilti epoxy)
• aluminum siding
• aluminum tape
• gray caulk (to match flooring)
• set screws (adjust height of plate)
• Grout (epoxy100 EPOXY GROUT 22# KIT 493014 standard or cement pending on )
• painters tape/newspaper (to cover up plate from grout)
• nylon bolts/threaded rod (the size of anchors to insert into mounts to prevent grout from getting in)

Step-by-step guide

1. BIO Approval
2. Drill anchors
3. Epoxy anchors (typically BIO present) & let cure for time needed
4. Move base plate into place & insert set screws
   1. Cover up ground facing holes with painters tape if necessary to prevent grout filling
5. Call alignment to set position of plate
6. Fabricate aluminum side plates
7. Caulk to sides of base plate & aluminum tape corners
8. Cover top of base plate to prevent grout spillage
9. Mix grout
10. Pour grout & let cure for time needed
11. Torque down anchors (typically BIO present)
12. Done

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PREP/PRE WORK/XTRA NOTES

• BUY
  • grout (comes through GSS & therefore takes a bit)
    • No longer comes with stirring rods, you have to buy it separately
    • A note that we might have a bunch of buckets still in stock from RIX/TXI/TMO work. Bought a huge pallet with Justin & gave the rest to Jenna Churchill for TXI work. Note that they expire 1 month after manufacture date.
  • anchor epoxy (GGS, also takes a bit)
    • we used this one https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_FASTENER_7135/CLS_INJECTABLE_ADHESIVE_ANCHORS_7135/r4929903
  • aluminum tape
  • aluminum siding
  • caulk for siding above. Grey is best to match floors.
  • set screws (different heights helpful, one time we had to wait to buy others since the floor was uneven and it needed higher ones)
  • painters tape/newspaper (to cover up plate from grout)
  • anti-seize (used to coat bolts when grouting so grout doesn’t seep into anchor holes)
  • rebar cutter drill bit (the techs will love you if they run into rebar, which they normally do at least once)
    • https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_POWER_TOOL_INSERT_7126/CLS_METAL_WOOD_DRILL_BITS_7126/CLS_ACC_FOR_METAL_DRILL_BITS_7126/r9021444?itemCode=3582029
  • NOTES
    • Your probably know this but BIO approval submission ASAP (takes ages to approve)
    • Give time for drilling. Rebar is unpredictable and will add a day’s work if unlucky
    • Use a thumper from alignment, you put it on the plate and it vibrates as you’re pouring to help it move. Useful for bigger pours

WORK

1. Bio approval
2. Alignment to mark holes
   1. Before drilling I like to put the plate in place to make sure holes line up. I’ve had to throw the plate over to the machine shop because of  any odd reason (plate holes are not big enough, technician was just a bit off for drilling into the ground, drawings different that manufactured plate, etc.)
3. Drill anchors
4. Epoxy anchors (typically BIO needs to be present pending what type/size of holes) & let cure (typically 24 hours)
   1. There is a special template/form/email to send to them to schedule this
5. Move plate into place & insert set screws
6. Call alignment to set position of plate (vertical positioning to beam line & they will adjust set screws)
7. Fabricate aluminum side plates, caulk into place & aluminum tape corners
8. Cover top of base plate to prevent grout spillage
9. Coat anchor bolts with anti-seize & insert into holes
   1. Prevents grout from entering holes/getting stuck to bolts
10. Mix grout (great to have at least 2 techs for this – 1 to mix 1 to pour, especially for larger plates
11. Pour grout into funnels & use thumper to help grout move
12. Let cure for time needed
13. Remove bolts & clean off
14. Reinsert bolts & torque down anchors (BIO present again)
15. DONE